Due February 17th. This lesson covers a few manual settings involving the exposure triangle. You will have to turn in FOUR photographs. Two will be drastically different shutter speed settings. Two will be drastically different ISO settings. (examples below)
Email all four photographs with your name, date and assignment information from your school email. CC yourself as a record.
**Photographs must be labeled shutter speed and ISO **
This is due February 17.
Also, if anyone sees something worth photographing around school (on a field trip, at a dance, fundraiser, or event), go ahead and email it to me and it will be counted for future yearbook assignments. MUST BE LABELED YEARBOOK ASSIGNMENT IN SUBJECT LINE.
Example: Shutter Speed Difference
Example: ISO Difference
Normally this is related to something called The Exposure Triangle but today we will focus on just two parts.
Aperture – The aperture of a camera is essentially the same as our eyes’ pupil. It opens to let light in and closes to darken. Unfortunately the apertures on all or nearly all smartphone cameras are fixed. This means that we cannot work with this setting to adjust how exposed our photos are, we must look elsewhere. Our camera is fixed at f-2.6 which won’t mean much to a beginner, but it has implications on our focus length and depth of field.
ISO – It can be used to boost the exposure of a photograph without requiring slow shutter speeds but it comes at a great cost: noise. The higher the number ISO setting you use, the more noise you can expect in your pictures. The goal is to have the minimum ISO you can while maintaining a proper level of exposure. This is where things get difficult as you are already down one setting (aperture) and must deal with increased shutter speeds to compromise for a properly exposed image, else face the wrath of the ugly ISO noise! ISO is almost always the reason behind low-light photo’s looking generally poor.
Shutter Speed – Shutter speed is an automated setting (on smartphone cameras) that determines how long the camera should be taking in light when you snap a picture. The longer the shutter is open, the brighter your image can get without bringing in any noise. However you open yourself up to the problem of motion blur. Long exposures require more than just steady hands, you will ideally need to have the camera fixed to a sturdy object if not a tripod than a piece of furniture or a wall etc. For fast motion photography you will need to use faster shutter speeds in order to avoid any blurring, but this limits our ability to properly expose our photos. Typical shutter speeds look like this: 1/2, 1/3, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/200 etc etc all the way up to around 1/1500. Take 1/30 for example, this means that for 1 30th of a second (or 0.0333 seconds) the shutter is open. If there is any motion in this time period, you will have blurring. This also means that you have less time to bring light into the sensor. The only way to make up for this is either through ISO adjustments, or by increasing the lighting of your scene.